Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Day 6 - Bandelier

June 10, 2008 - Santa Fe to Bandelier and back - 74 Miles


Managed to sleep in. Bobby J and I hit the road, make that the Santa Fe Bus Line at 9:21am this morning, heading for the Governor's Palace. Spent a couple of hours there going through the exhibits and getting a pretty good history lesson from one of the volunteers. Given our ethnocentric, western European view of history we forget that Santa Fe was settled and the center of government in the southwest before the arrival of the Jamestown settlers or the Pilgrims.

Only bad part of the exhibit for me was the lone mention of Col. Kit Carson, and what I deem to be a very politically correct, meaning incorrect, statement about his service with the U.S. Army. The statement said that his service against the Navajos, Apache, Utes, etc., "marred his reputation." He was a product of his time. In the final analysis, Carson was no worse, or no better than the great Navajo chiefs Narbona and Manuelito. I've grown tired of the "noble savage" crap! Given how these people enslaved , treated captives, killed without compunction, I find it a little difficult to give them some kind of moral high ground over Anglo expansion westward. The Anglos conquered the land and those on it just as the native Americans did. Ever wonder why the "feared" Apache ended up with with the worst land? Easy, the Comanche kicked them out of west Texas, and the Navajo stopped them from moving further westward.

Originally, I thought I'd lost the pictures taken at the Governor's Palace, but I managed to turn up some. There was no photography inside, and, frankly, not that much inside I would want to capture. But the garden area contained between the low-slung square structure was very nice.

Great, relaxing spot. Quiet and tranquil even though the square and all those tourists are just on the other side of the building.

The children at the table under the tree were painting. It was a neat thing.








A pretty place. Nice book store at the far end.












After the Governor's Palace Bobby J went to the Harley dealer and ransomed his scooter. About 3:30 we took off for Los Alamos and Bandelier.

Not much in Los Alamos, but I was surprised at the topography. For some reason (I think all the Hollywood movies) I've always pictured Los Alamos as a desert area with no redeeming features. Probably more correct to think of White Sands that way. Los Alamos is high in the mountains around Santa Fe and is beautiful country with rolling hills and mountains, and valleys. It's really quite nice.

(Note: Click on any picture to enlarge)




Road to Bandelier (no not a Crosby-Hopi movie).








We pulled into Bandelier National Monument about 5:00pm. For those unfamiliar with it, it is an Anasazi ruin dating back to around 1250 AD. Truly a wonderful little valley which has seen human habitation for 11,000 years.

A very large Kiva is the first thing you come upon on the trail back into the ruins. According to Bob, who, believe me, knows about these things, this is a spectacular example.

This picture is from the "illegal" side. Must be illegal, after asking us if we were with the Park Service and receiving a negative reply, an officious, if not official, guy told us were weren't to get off the path.

For crying out loud, Bobby J's been off the beaten path as long as I've known him. Sometime he can't even find it.



Just up the trail a short distance you come to the "apartment" ruins. These are very impressive in the numbers of people they would hold.

These lay on a ridge overlooking the creek (Cottonwoods in the background.) They are, essentially, the valley floor.








Another look.









The other side.












And above the valley floor...the high rise.













Taken from the high rise area looking back down on the valley floor settlement. Notice the hole in the pillar rock.








Small version of the famous Window Rock? Naw, just a hole.












There are some really neat flowers and vegetation in the valley and along the cliff apartments.

I thought these really neat cacti.









Petroglyphs above the apartments. Artwork was placed above the living areas to show respect for the spirits being drawn.












This is an actual painting. It's covered with glass for protection.











Circling back around by the creek you are walking in shady woods filled with Ponderosa Pine and Cottonwoods.
















Walked our tails off, but it was worth it. It was so quiet and peaceful you can't help but wonder at the simple lives of the people who lived here so many years ago. There are some campgrounds out by the visitor center. Had I time, I think I'd really enjoy camping here for a night or two. Can't though. I always carry a tent in case I can't find a place to stay, but sleeping in a two-man tent with Bobby J is more than I can contemplate. I'm sure he feels the same about me. Our two bedroom suite at the Residence Inn is almost more than we can bear. He's got the remnants of a hacking cold and he swears I snore. But he's not to be trusted on that score. Besides, we're still sorting through the refried beans and posole. It ain't gonna happen.

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